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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.